What does one feel when one listens to these words Kailash Mansarovar, we Indian Hindus think of shiva and Parvati Ji sitting together at some icy mountain. This is how most of the television serials show it, they also show is a lush green valley and lots of trees around it. I went to Kailash for the first time in 1995 out of inquisitiveness and would you believe it was an unforgettable experience. In those days very few people knew where Kailash parvat was situated.
In those days via Nepal, it was 22 days journey in Toyota Land cruiser. 4 persons in one vehicle and a Sherpa in the back of the vehicle, It was compulsory to stay in tents and mud houses. No roads no communication with the outside world it was a journey one would never forget lots of hardship on the way no guest houses or hotels only tents, no bathrooms no toilet once had to go traditional way for the toilet. But your devotion and love for Shiva drives you thru and trust me when you come back you don’t remember the hardship one has to face throughout the journey.
Once you reach Nepal you visit Pashupatinath temple which is of so important to shiva followers. There are various legends, associated with the development of the sanctuary. The most popular one cases, that the sanctuary was based on the site where Shiva lost one of his prongs, while he was in the pretense of a deer. He and his better half showed up to the bank of Bagmati and astounded by the magnificence of the site chose to change themselves into deers and stroll in the encompassing backwoods.
Inevitably divine beings and people chose to return them to their obligations, however, Shiva dismissed to return and they needed to utilize power. In the battle, Shiva lost one of his tusks, which later turned into the principal lingam revered by Hinduists in Pashupatinath. Later this relic was lost, and as indicated by another legend, discovered again by a herder, whose dairy animals demonstrated the area of lingam by watering the spot it was covered with her milk.
Buddha Neelkath ( Sleeping Vishnu)
Pashupatinath is where exceptionally old Hindu customs are polished in their amazing starting structure, allowing the guests to feel the one of a kind soul of Hindu conventions of life, passing, and resurrection.
One visits Boudhanath temple and Swayambunath temple both being Buddha temple are must-visit places though you may not be a follower of Buddha a do visit these places. The Tibet border was around 120 km it takes around 5 – 6 hrs as roads were bad. The route taken was Kathmandu – kodari – Nyalam – Saga 13000 ft – dongba – Mansarovar 15000 ft – Darchen 15k ft– dirapuk 17.5 ft – zuthulpuk 12k ft – darchen – dongba – Saga – Kodari – Kathmandu.
With no roads we use to follow the direction of the west as Kailash was situated in the west, crossing all small water streams and rivers with trial and error method. One land cruiser with first go in the water asses the depth of water and if it comes out on the other side then other vehicles would follow there use to be truck which use to carry out kitchen equipment, food, and tents. Only in the Brahmaputra river, we used to use a ferry boat to cross the river. The cement bridge was built on it in 2005 and we no more had to ferry in boat.
Option in food was very less, Nepali cooks could not cook variety mostly it was Rajma Chaval only 2 times a day.
Fleet of Land crusier at Mansarovar
The first look of Mansarovar lake was an unbelievable blue color water body and most of the Land cruiser drivers stopped the vehicle and did dandvat pranam I was surprised to see such deep respect and worship for Mansarovar. You will be surprised to know that Tibetans too worship Mansarovar and Kailash and have very high regard for them. Mansarovar is 120 km in circumference and 300 feet depth in the center. One must visit this place to experience it is situated at a height of 15000 ft. Since my age was around 29 did not feel many pinches of altitude sickness but in our group people were feeling a bit nausea, headache, some uneasy ness but it goes away within 24 hrs. One must be properly hydrated. With the outside temperature around 3 degrees with lots of tea, coffee, and warm water we all were ok. We camped at Chiu gompa in tents with sleeping bags all these days we got used to it. In the morning it was a lovely view we all took a holy bath in crystal clear water of Mansarovar and performed puja near the banks of Mansarovar. One can see Kailash it is around 20 km away from Mansarovar. We did our Mansarovar parikrama in Land cruiser it took 5 hrs to complete. We stayed at Mansarovar for 2 nights. The next day we went to Rakshash tal which is believed to be made by Ravana. It is even more beautiful than Mansarovar as it was made by Mayavi Ravan it still shows the Maya he possessed it is really beautiful to see and you can see Kailash clearly from there.
We left for Darchen and camped which is at the foothills of Kailash. We immediately left for Astapad which is 7 km from Darchen and no roads our jeep got stuck many times before we reach Astapad. This is a unique place where you get to see the South face of Kailash, with Nandi sitting in front of it and Astapad to the left of Kailash which is a worship place for Jains. Ashtapad Tirth is a mountain on which the first Jain Tirthankara, Bhagwan Rushabhdev attained nirvana and is considered to be the holiest of holy Jain shrine. Though to date no one has been able to confirm its exact location and is now considered to be a ‘lost’ Tirth. Ashtapad literally means eight steps which could be either eight giant steps to ascend the mountain or a chain of eight mountain peaks. You can see eight steps here. We then came back and to rest at Darchen in a small makeshift guest house.
On the way to Darchen
We finally started our Kailash Parikrama from Yam dwar, this is the last point where our vehicles would come. The Kailash parikrama is 40 km on foot. And takes around 3 days to complete. Our group members all were trekking and no one had hired yaks. In Kailash parikrama on yaks were available nowadays one gets horses. Horses started in 2002 onwards. The kitchen equipment, tents, and food are carried on the yak. The team of Sherpa and cook is with you during Kailash parikrama. Day 1 is around 12 km and relatively easy as you slowly reach 17500 ft. On the way after trekking for 4 hrs we reach a small tea house bang opposite Kailash west face, it is such a beautiful sight and it is very difficult to explain in words when you are so close you God whom you believe. Another trek of 3 hrs we were at Dirapuk bang opposite Kailash North face. We camped there and spent our evening watching Shiva and one
Vasuki Nag at the top of Kailash
can see Vasuki nag right on the top of Kailash, amazing. The next day morning we got up early and started our most difficult trek of Kailash parikrama of 22 km, here 6 km is very tough as we climb the mountain and reach Dolmala pass at 19600 ft. It took 5 hrs to climb 6 km and reach the top. Oxygen is very thin at this altitude and one has to start to descend very soon, as soon as you start to descend we come across Gauri Kund this one very beautiful pond it has aquamarine color very different color may be due to altitude. We trekked for around 6 hrs to reach Zutulpuk and everybody was very tired but one could see the satisfaction on their face of having so close to Kailash and all most completed its parikrama. The next day after trekking for 6 km we reach a point where our land cruiser had come to pick up did final pranam to Kailash and reach Darchen.
We came back to Kathmandu by the same route. This I have written as many people nowadays do not know how tough it was to do Kailash yatra. Today one has several options by helicopter, by bus vis Lhasa. Today one gets to stay in Guesthouses with a proper bed and good hygienic Indian food. But still, you will see people complaining, one must understand that Kailash is situated at a remote place, three different agencies take care of this yatra at different stages. Three different countries come in the picture. Travel agencies try their level best but circumstances are such in this yatra that one has to compromise. I will be highlighting the roles of travel agency in this yatra so you can decide which agency to choose from. If you want to read more about choosing a travel agency for Kailash Mansarovar yatra please click here.
Thanks for reading my blog I am not a writer but in this present situation faced by the world by corona, I thought let me pen down some for my age old experiences.
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